"I am a Nuba, this is the place of my birth, and nobody will ever again come and give me orders in my land" says Martha Ousman indicating with a sleeping gesture the valley below. With a machine-gun across her shoulder, Martha and a handful of other freedom fighters have the duty of protecting a mountain pass from incursions by the Sudan Government Army.

From Kenya, you need to fly for more than three hours to reach the Nuba Mountains, in the geographical heart of Sudan. The runway is hidden among the fields, where the sorghum has just been harvested. From there on the only means of transport are your legs. Luckily enough the area offers one of the best and more diversified landscapes visible in Africa: fields with sorghum and sim-sim, high and slender palm trees, rocky hills with stone houses similar to fortified citadels, steep mountain paths with breathtaking views on the plain below, wide seasonal rivers, vegetable gardens carved out of the side on the hills, majestic baobab trees.

The Nuba Mountains are known for their beauty and for the culture of the people living in this vast area of about 50 000 square kilometres. World famous photographers have published books that celebrate the most striking visual aspects of the Nuba cultures: body painting, wrestling, dancing, architecture. The civil war against the cultural, religious and economic oppression of the Khartoum government started on the Nuba Mountains only in 1987, several years later than in other parts of Sudan. Since then the entire area has been cut off from the rest of the world. When the United Nations negotiated with Khartoum government the humanitarian intervention known as operation Lifeline Sudan, this area was left out. No relief of any kind reaches the population living under the control of the Sudanese People's Liberation Army, SPLA, about 250 000 people in constant growth. The government does not allow even humanitarian or human rights observers to visit the area.

The publication in July, 1995 of a book by African Rights entitled "Facing Genocide: the Nuba of Sudan", brought to the attention of the world, with a substantial and indisputable documentation, that the Khartoum government is bent on the complete annihilation of the Nuba cultures and peoples. Yet, the Nuba are determined to resist. In the face of forced Arabization (even genetically, through systematic rape and forced marriages) and Islamization, the Nuba are not only determined to keep their cultural and religious identity, but they are uniting in a political resistance front.

Religion has become part of this resistance. Not a particular religion, but all religions. Christians of all Churches and tolerant Muslims (the SPLA Governor, Yusuf Kuwa, is himself a Muslim) find in God the defender of their rights. Believers can all easily come together since tolerance is part of the Nuba tradition. It is not unusual to find in the same family Christians and Muslims. I was moved when, as I was about to celebrate mass in a village, the local Imam came to me and asked permission to attend prayers, because, he said: "I know that our Father and I would like to pray together with my Catholic friends". At the end I asked him to say a few words, and he talked about our common childhood with God.

Later, during the meal with the community elders, around a huge plate with kisra (unleavened bread made with sorghum), pumpkin sauce, onions with peanut butter and goat meat, while everybody was busy dipping the Kisra into the sauce, I asked the catechist who had refused a wrestling match to be done in the church's yard: "Why did you forbid the wrestler to perform in the Church's yard?".

I am afraid there was a note of disapproval in my voice. The catechist said: "Last year during the dry season a commando of government soldiers arrived here by surprise. Usually the purpose of the attacks is to sow fear, to destroy the gathered harvest so that hunger will force us to go to the town controlled by the government, and also to punish the Christians. The government commando found Gabriel, the catechist my predecessor, here in the Church while he was teaching the Catechumens. Most people managed to run away but Gabriel, in his efforts to cover the Catechumens' escape, was caught. He was asked "Are you a Christian?" "Yes", he answered firmly, knowing what the consequence would be. Then they tried to tie his hands and feet. What usually happens is that the soldiers put the Christian in the Church building, after tied their hands and feet, and set fire on the roof, so that all of them are burnt alive in the church. Gabriel, who was a powerfully built man and an expert wrestler himself, resisted having his hands tied. One of the soldiers, afraid that Gabriel might escape from their grip, took out his knife and slashed his throat. Then the soldiers ran away leaving Gabriel's body on the ground, just outside the Church door. All this was witnessed by two catechumens hidden in the bush down there. That is why we Catholics consider the Church area a holy ground. Gabriel here spilled his blood for Jesus."

I was left speechless. My objection to his action had evaporated, and my respect for him grew. These are the people to whom adherence to Christ is often a commitment up to death. Their wrestling is not only a sport; it is a sign that they are spiritually ready to wrestle in defence of their human dignity and of their belief.

I think that my duty as a priest is to be close to these people, without passing judgement. How can I demand from them to be able to react to the Khartoum oppression and to affirm their human dignity in a non-violent way, without having experienced or at least seen the suffering and the exploitation that is their everyday lot? Before preaching and judging, it is important to share life.

* In spite of his African name, Fr. Kizito hails from Italy. He is a priest by vocation and a journalist by avocation. He has lived in Africa for many years and has been involved with youth activities for most of these years. He is a former editor of New People. He is well known in Kenya for his weekly column in the Sunday Nation.

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