According to the most ancient traditions, Chinese civilization was born with Yu the Grand, the first king and founder of the first dynasty because he was the first one to know how rivers could be led to the sea protecting thereby lands from being inundated. He taught this art to others. Irrigation, drainage, control/check of monsoon rains began.

Today in China, tourism is like the monsoon. Everyone awaits its benefits, but nothing is done to check it.

The 'monsoon of tourists' is no longer controlled

For years China was practically shut to foreign tourists; only a few delegations or groups of cultural associations could come. These visits had a political aim. After the death of Mao Zedong, groups of tourists started arriving from abroad; for the authorities, it was a sign of China's opening to the world and an occasion to show its rich culture. Ever since the reform began, tourism has become an economic sector that is developing at a high speed like all services. With more than 25 million foreign tourists in 1998, China was the sixth world tourist destination and ranked twelfth in 1990, for the number of foreign tourists coming into the country.

It may be worth while to mention here that along with these numbers there is also a definite development in domestic tourism. It is not just meritorious workers who visit China. More than 100 million people go on a vacation thanks to a higher standard of life. This signifies an important market and therefore a sector where competition is increasingly high.

Almost all travel agencies come under the public sector. They are either a part of a ministry, the army or the local administration. But instead of having policies of concerted tariffs - earlier, tariffs were decided in Beijing when there were fewer agencies- they have henceforth an aggressive commercial logic quite similar to what one finds in the neighbouring countries of the Pacific zone and South East Asia where tourism is predominantly a private sector.

An increasing number of clients especially foreign tourists complain of mandatory visits to shops included in every itinerary. One or even two visits per day are compulsory because almost all Chinese travel agencies force their guides to stop by at shops: the guides must get their record books stamped to prove they have been here. Any guide not respecting this rule runs a risk of losing his job.

Why this system? In order to offer lower tariffs for the tourists. To gain hold over the market, travel agencies must bring down their profit margins for two reasons. Firstly China must be an attractive destination as compared to other countries, and secondly, they want to compete with other agencies offering similar services by quoting the lowest prices. To compensate for these low tariffs, tourists are made to visit shops. The shop owner either gives a fixed commission for each visit or a percentage of the sales to the travel agency. Even in some museums, guides have to make sure that tourists do not spend too much time looking at the exhibits so that they have enough time at the museum shop. So the reduction in tariffs are recovered more easily and the tourists have a feeling they haven't spend too much on their trip. This also creates employment for workers of small-scale industries and handicrafts' units.

Culture becomes a mere wrapping to sell tourism

All would have been well if the system was in control. In spite of all affirmations, culture is a mere wrapping for the Chinese tourism industry. China has a number of historical and cultural sites but the conditions are declining. Chinese tourists from within the country or outside, the Japanese, Malaysians or Thais who have few days of vacations to spare, must see as much as possible in a limited time. Similarly, Europeans or Americans make shorter trips now than ten years ago and wish to see as much if not more. The 'mandatory stops' further reduce their visiting time.

How to get out of this infernal cycle? It is easier to ask this question than find an answer. I am aware that I cannot pursue tourism of quality even if I really wish to. It would be suicidal - for agencies and some employees - to raise tariffs and promote tourism that respects the clients' wishes because tourism contributes to pay salaries to civil servants.

We can no longer control the 'monsoon of tourists'. It is too heavy, poorly controlled and badly managed. Perhaps we need a new Yu! A Yu capable of reorganizing tourism that brings benefit to a larger number of people, to the inhabitants of my country as well as foreign visitors who may stop coming if these reports are spread by word of mouth. Otherwise China will remain a privileged destination for poor quality mass tourism. Even if hotels are very comfortable, it is not up to them to explain the peculiarities of Chinese culture.

*Executive (marketing) in an important travel agency in China, pseudonym.

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